MAKE UP_ Lou Dartford, HAIR_ Carolina Crona.

MODELS_ Nellie and Dylan @ Nevs, Blythe and Olamide @ Wild, Kidd @ The Eye, Latifa @ Named Models.

This statistic and variants of, have been flying about for ages, and yes of course are massively debateable. Whatever your thoughts on it, there is no denying that some of what we put on our lips must be ingested at some point. So, what is actually in a lipstick?

In most of the market, we read about the wonderful plant oils and moisturising butters and waxes to help nourish and protect our lips, which is wonderful. However, how far down the ingredient list do we actually see these? Lipstick is traditionally one of those make-up products that is the hardest to keep on; talking, drinking, eating and now of course, mask wearing, all give any lipstick formulation a run for its money. Therefore, look at the top of the ingredient list (where you’ll find those that are in the highest quantities in the product) and you’re more likely to find dimethicone, trimethicone, polyethylene, propylene copolymer, nylon-12, PEGs and acrylates to name but a few.

These ingredients are used to give make-up its durability and long wear, however what is often overlooked is the fact that these are microplastics. 

The microbead became headline news a few years back and after much campaigning, in 2018 the UK banned the use of plastic microbeads within cosmetic and personal care products. This was brilliant news, however there is still cause for concern. Unfortunately micro and nano plastics are actually quite common place in many skincare, make-up and hair formulations.

Synthetic polymers such as those mentioned above, can be found in many of our beauty products. As well as adding durability, they have many other uses including emulsifying ingredients together, adding bulk or texture to a product and helping other ingredients to penetrate into the skin.

So what’s the problem with them? From an environmental point of view they’re not great – as these products are washed off, the polymers will end up being washed down the sink and because they are so small, can ultimately end up in our waterways and soils. In terms of health and skin health, no-one really knows the long term affects. Yes they may be used in very small amounts, but if all of your products contain them, then they can add up to a lot. 

Over the last few years we’ve been learning more and more about microplastics, they’re definitely still not understood fully, but we do know how increasingly hard it is to avoid them in general life. 

From a cosmetic point of view, there are many brands that are certifying themselves Zero Plastic on the Inside with the Plastic Soup Foundation, which is brilliant resource if you’re looking to find out more. With the certification it makes it easier to avoid them in our skincare, and if we can, then why not. From a make-up point of view it is harder to avoid all of these ingredients if we want our make-up to stay on for long periods of time, indeed a waterproof product is nearly impossible. Unlike skincare, I understand the reasoning behind them in some make-up products, however I am selective with how and when I use them. I think that is one of the keys – actually being aware of what is in your products and why you’re using them. I wouldn’t necessarily use a primer with a silicone everyday but perhaps I might recommend it for a special occasion for example.

A certified organic product will not be allowed to contain microplastics, however many ‘clean’ brands will. And therein lies the huge issue with clean beauty and no set standards. Many would argue that a synthetic such as silicone is not problematic (to skin) so therefore is clean. However from a sustainability point of view, a non-degradable microplastic is anything but clean. These plastics will also be derived from the petroleum industry which is non-renewable and contributing significantly to climate change.

Mineral oil and petrolatum are also typical ingredients in many lip products, again petrochemicals. These are occlusive which means they form a waterproof layer; ‘locking’ things in and ‘locking’ things out. They may feel comforting on the lips, however I’ve never found them to be hydrating, in fact the opposite - I’ve found a need to be continuously applying. There is no ‘nutrition’ in these ingredients; they won’t add any benefit to the skin. I’m much more a fan of using something like a shea butter or beeswax which contain essential fats and vitamins to nourish as well as protect skin.

When choosing ‘natural’ ingredients though, we need to be sure of their origin. Natural can also be unsustainable. It doesn’t mean we have to give up our lipstick though. There are some amazing brands using amazing ingredients that do good for all and stay on!! Advanced green technology means you can still get ‘moisture rich, velvety formulas’ that glide on with ease, giving great colours and longevity too. It’s also in your application; whatever your lipstick choice, taking the time to apply it well will go a long way in helping products last.

For the shoot I used some of my favourites including Kjaer Weis Nude Naturally Lipstick which is certified organic by the Italian certification body CCPB and silicone free. The colours are beautiful and feel lovely on lips. Another iconic brand for me is RMS Beauty, one of the original brands to put green beauty on the map. The Wild With Desire lipsticks are staples in my kit. Green People are a certified organic UK based beauty brand specialising in skincare but their compact make-up range has some great pieces – the mascara is a favourite along with their two nude matt lipsticks – I used the Damask Rose to emphasise Dylan’s natural tones. Ere Perez is another loved brand in my kit and their Olive Oil Lipsticks have great texture and colour choice. I used a lipstick from Tropic, which is a brand I’m learning more about, their environmental report is impressive!

It’s amazing the difference beauty brands can make in their choices, and amazing the difference we can make in our beauty choices.